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How To Prepare To Paint Your Home's Exterior

You may think of your home's outside as the castle walls that shield you from the evil effects of Mother Nature. But guess what protects the walls themselves from rain, snow and wind? That's right, your paint. Without that thick colorful barrier to seal out the elements, your wooden walls would eventually crumble to the ground. Simply, your paint is important. And if it's going to do its job of protection, it's got to be able to stick or adhere to the walls it sits on.

So before you drop that drop cloth and unfurl that ladder, take a hard look at the surface you're about to cover up: is it properly prepared for a new coat of paint? The key is to make sure the surface underneath your new paint is clean, smooth and sealed.

Tools:

Pressure washer (can be rented)
Scrub brush
Rotary paint sander, palm sander or power sander
Ladder
Putty knife
Paint scraper

Supplies:

Sandpaper (#50 and 100 grit)
Exterior grade patching compound
Exterior primer
Exterior Caulking
Blue painter's tape
Disposable painting tarps
Spackle (if needed for filling holes)
Beach or mildew remover (for removing mildew if present)
Trisodium Phospate (for heavily soiled walls)
Disposable gloves
Household cleaner
Paint

Let's look at some techniques you'll want to use to make sure your new paint job is one that will last for years to come.

Step 1: Apply Some Pressure

Consider renting a pressure washer from your local tool center. Just hook up the hose, and start scouring every inch of surface with a blast of pressurized water that'll remove most of the grime in a jiffy. With a swath of water shooting out at a pressure of over 1000 lbs. per square inch (your shower is typically well under 80), it's a bit like washing your car with a fire hose. But it's incredibly fast and thorough; it'll even tear off loose peeling paint. Be careful, because all that power can also rip off awnings, shingles and other stuff you'd just as soon not replace.

Safety Tip:Remember, a lot of debris will be thrown into the air, so you'll want to be sure you wear proper eye protection when using a pressure washer. Also, it should seem obvious, but make sure all your windows are secured.

If you've got more time than money, you can also use a garden hose with a scrub brush. If you have no other issues to resolve give it at least 8-10 hours of drying time before applying any primer or paint.

Tip:If larger pieces of wood start coming loose as you spray, be sure to look on the underside for wood rot or a possible termite infestation. These can not only adversely affect your new paint, but can continue to grow if ignored.

Step 2: Smooth Things Out

Once the house is dry, walk the perimeter and look for any spots that could present a problem for your new paint. You want to look for any loose, peeling, blistered, or otherwise damaged paint. You can use a wide blade putty knife/scraper to scratch most of the flakes off. If you've got lots of flaky stuff, consider an attachment for your cordless drill called a rotary paint sander. Be careful though as it's easy to gouge up your house with one of these whirling wire gadgets, so go easy with it at first until you get the hang of it. With the right touch, it can help strip off that cracking paint in no time.

Tool Tip: Another great way to remove old paint is by using a power paint stripper, such the Paint Eater from Wagner. Once the loose stuff is removed, use some coarse sandpaper (between 50-80 grit) to "feather" the edge which means to help hide where the good paint met the problem paint by blending the point of intersection.

Tip:If most of your house's paint is peeling, you might be in for a bigger prep job than initially anticipated. You'll want to use an electric sander for the entire job. Patience and persistence are key as this process is often the longest part of the entire project.

If you've got cracks, holes or gouges, now is the time to take care of them. Using a putty knife and some exterior grade patching compound (it's spackle for the outside of your house), simply apply as needed by filling in the cracks as if you're spreading cream cheese on a bagel. Scrape away any excess and let it dry according to the manufacturer's instructions. Once dry, use the #100 grit sandpaper to smooth the seam where the old paint meets the repair to help hide it.

Step 3: Seal the Deal

Once all your surface holes and peeling paint are patched and sanded, cover any repairs with an exterior quality primer to protect the underlying wood.

Step 4: Caulk of the Walk

The biggest culprit in wood rot is water, so you'll want to be sure to seal the seams of your house with exterior caulking. You'll need to lay an even bead on the joints of every eve, window and overhang anywhere water is likely to penetrate.

Tool Tip:Depending on the size of your house, you may use a lot of caulk and acquire some very sore hands if you use a manual caulk gun. You may want to consider purchasing a power caulk gun.

Step 5: Protect the Rest of Your Place

You'll now want to be sure you cover any areas you want to avoid splattering with paint. This might include the windows, doors, sconces, trim, plants, walkways and driveways. Remember, for ease of removal, use blue painter's tape when masking. Old newspaper can be used to cover expanses of windows, screens, and doors and you can use inexpensive disposable drop cloths for walkways and hedges.

You are now officially ready to paint. Preparation is absolutely essential to a quality job. Professional painters often spend more time on preparation than actual painting, so know that this will be time well spent. After all, a few hours of preparation can mean a few extra years on the life of your paint job!

(By Be Jane)